need advice about dark patches and also the fruit powders

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MayaN
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Joined: 2017-04-16 04:10
need advice about dark patches and also the fruit powders

Ok, so I've posted at length already, about my "henna journey," so I won't start at the beginning.  Suffice to say that everything was going super well and just as expected, with only some minor snags that I was able (with your help!) to work through.  I achieved my goal of medium copper hair (over chemically dyed/highlighted warm medium brown).  I got there with a Jasmine henna/cassia/amla mix on the lengths, and with essentially the same recipe at the roots and where I'm more gray, except with a tiny bit of indigo added to help reduce the "orange blaze" effect on those lighter areas.   I had my "Isla Fisher" fantasy color!  All was well with the universe, lol.  

But I live in Las Vegas... the days are VERY bright and sunny here.  I don't spend a lot of time outdoors, especally in the summer (it was 117 degrees here yesterday!).  But I'm outdoors every morning, before it gets hot.  I would catch reflections of myself in shop windows, and my hair was just screaming "orange" in the sunlight (even weeks afer oxidation).  Indoors it looked great, but outdoors at the farmer's market or at a pool, I really felt uncomfortably orange.  My daughter commented that in outdoor lighting It was just too bright to look natural on my complexion, and I had to agree.  

So I whipped up a very weak indigo gloss, it was mostly conditioner.  I usually meticulously strand test everything I do to my hair, but unfortunately I did not strand test the weak indigo gloss, because back when I was trying to cool off the bright copper on my roots, I had treid several rounds of pure indigo gloss, and it didn't take to my hair at all, even with salt added... I had needed to switch to a henndigo blend to get the roots to cool down enough match the lengths.  So I was in no way expecting my weak indigo gloss to come up too dark!... in fact I wondered if it would work at all.  So I (stupidly) skipped the strand test, completely forgetting that my lengths are way more porous than my roots.

I left the gloss on for only 10-15 minutes!  But my hair came out a flat dark brown, with barely any copper hightlight.  It wasn't awful, just SO far from what I had, and what I wanted.  So two days later I   hennaed over it with my original henna, cassia, amla mix, upping the henna ratio.  It is now a medium brown with a copper-penny cast.  It's really quite lovely, and works very well with my skin tone and eyebrows.  And when I'm out in the sun, the "orange flash" is not nearly as vivid.  So even though it is still considerably darker than I would like, and no longer as coppery as I would like, I'm basically happy with the new overall color...  

But it's now got some cool espresso brown streaks in it, on the sides of my head.  I think that's because that's where the indigo really grabbed onto the more porous areas of my hair.   Those dark streaks aren't super noticeable, they do blend in, but I'd like to get rid of them because they make my overall hair color read "brown" rather than auburn.  

I've done several rounds of honey lightening to those dark brown streaks, using a tested recipe advised by the Long Hair Community.  Left my hair in great condition, but no results.  Same with my attempts at using baking soda shampoo and then Vit C lightening.  No damage, but no results.  That indigo gloss is just IN there.  I do not want to try Color Oops, because I have experience with that product, and on me the lightening effect tends to be splotchy and it tends to be really drying.  My hair is in really nice condition now from all the henna, and I want to grow it longer, so I'd like to avoid chemicals.  

Any advice on how to gradually fade the dark patches of hair?

Also, next time I do my roots I'd also like to brighten the overall color a bit to make the copper cast pop more, even if I have to put up with it looking brighter in the sun.  Should I try a pure henna gloss for that, or would it be better to just re-henna with my same henna-cassia-amla mix?  I will definitely strand test first, so please don't be afraid to give me your recommendations.  

Since my hair is now darker all over and less coppery than I'd ideally like it to be, I"m thinking of reducing the amla and cassia ratios in my recipe.  So I was browsing some of the other Mehandi fruit acids.  Which would you recommend?   Also, can the fruit acids be blended and used together? 

Final question, and I'm sorry for so many.  I was using a bit of indigo in my root recipe, in the areas where my % of gray is much higher... it did work to help keep the roots from going too organe, but I'd rather avoid indigo if I can just get way with a higher % of amla at the root.  What is the HIGHEST % of amla that can be used in a pure henna or henna/cassia recipe?  

MANY thanks for all your help!!  

Maya   

 

enissel
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Last seen: 1 day 5 hours ago
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Joined: 2016-09-07 09:47
Lightening dark areas

Hello,

For the areas that are too dark I would try putting coconut oil on them to fade the indigo. This can have varying results. You may need to do it more than once.

Nightfall rose is a great fruit acid that adds subtle ash tones to the mix. Malluma Kristalovino is very gentle on the hair and makes a darker henna stain.  For amla you want to use 25g for every 100g of henna/cassia you are using in your mix. Using more amla will not make the color more ash toned.

If the color comes out to bright for you, I would add a small amount of indigo to tone it down.

MayaN
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Last seen: 1 week 1 day ago
Joined: 2017-04-16 04:10
Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestions!   

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