Update - 1st Root Touchup to 80% grey - Detailed Instructions

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Vanillatte
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Update - 1st Root Touchup to 80% grey - Detailed Instructions

I have been lurking for about two weeks now and have read nearly every forum post I could find on dying grey with henna. Today, I impulsively decided to order cassia and just give it a try, but after I placed the order, decided that I probably ought to ask the experts before I go slathering things on my hair that I might not be able to fix without a visit to the salon. (Which isn't going to happen!) I have sworn off chemical hair dyes and had resigned myself to my grey hair until I found this site. Now I am really excited that I might actually get a chance to have some color in my hair again! 

Anyhow, below is a link to my current hair:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lornatho/May32011?authkey=Gv1sRgCOqZ6aPV3__PRA&feat=directlink

The first two pics dated 05/03/2011 are today. The other two were taken back in December. It is mostly white/grey (I'd say 80%), with some old blonde (chemical) toward the ends and darker, ash-blonde with red undertones underneath at the nape of my neck (natural). I was auburn when I was younger, then faded to brown, and am now mostly grey.

I would like the color to be predominately blonde with a hint of red...pretty close to this...

http://www.hennaforhair.com/mixes/Kris/

...or lighter would be okay too.

I have a very ruddy complexion due to rosacea, so really want to avoid the bright, firey red, or orange.

Any suggestions, advice, will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks all!!

-Lorna

ACWN
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Re: Help Please - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or cassia ...

Cassia alone is going to give you a light blond color that will fade out somewhat in about 3 weeks. If you want a stronger color, you're going to have to do a couple back to back applications but do be careful because cassia can become brassy colored.

 

Strand test when your order comes in, it will show you what you will get. I would mix it with apple juice and let it sit about 7 - 9 hours (covered, plastic to the surface), then apply to a bit of hair from your brush or snipped from your head where no one will see. Put in a ziplock and tuck it in your pocket for a good 3 hours or longer. Rinse and let it dry.

Vanillatte
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Re: Help Please - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or cassia ...

Thank you for the reply. I will try this when the cassia arrives and let you know the results.

Thanks so much!

 

Vanillatte
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Re: Help Please - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or cassia ...

I decided to purchase the 'Cinnamon' kit so I could play around with the color on test swatches of hair. This kit contains buxus and henna. With my hair being as light as it is in places, do you think I would want to use less henna than the recommended combinations of 2 parts Cassia, 1 part henna, 1 part buxus to get a 'Dark Ash Blonde' as described here (Chai):

http://www.mehandi.com/shop/blondebundle/index.html

 

Thank you!

Carrie
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Re: Help Please - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or cassia ...

Just thought you might want to see what cassia looks like on gray hair. This is from Megumi Organic Salon in Hawaii. The blonde lady is the one with cassia.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.460335518857.249630.133907238857

The Chai mix is going to turn out darker and redder than what I would consider blonde, I think. My previous mix was 100 gm cassia and just a teaspoon each of henna and buxus: 

www.flickr.com/photos/39335752@N04/3787006903/in/set-72157623088472780/

Vanillatte
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Re: Help Please - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or cassia ...

Hi Carrie,

Thanks! That helps! I really like the look of your hair with the 1 tsp henna, 1 tsp buxus. I will definitely do a strand test of that to see how it turns out.

Thanks for posting this. I am super excited to get the products and start playing!

-Lorna

Vanillatte
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Update/Question - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or cassia ...

Hello All,

I received the cassia, henna and buxus. I mixed up small samples of the following to apply to test strands later.

1. Cassia alone, ACV, olive oil

2. 8 parts cassia, 1 part henna, ACV, olive oil

3. 8 parts cassia, 1 part henna, 1 part buxus, ACV, olive oil

The instructions say to let set for 12 hours. However, since I used apple cider vingar (I had no apple juice on hand), should I expect the dye release to happen sooner?

Thank you!

-Lorna 

ACWN
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Re: Update/Question - 80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

I'm not sure what the dye release time for ACV is, not many people use it because it makes henna smell pretty nasty. Also, if you mixed the henna and cassia powders together, you arent going to be able to check for dye release since the henna dye will be so diluted. If you mixed the buxus powder with them too, it will most likely be useless by the time you apply. Buxus is like indigo, it needs to be mixed with just warm water, alone, right before you use it.

 

12 hours is too long for an apple juice mix, by the way. At least, I personally think so. Its not as acidic as lemon, so it will dye release much faster.

 

This is just my two cents, but since you're trying to cover grey, I would cut out the olive oil entirely until after you've dyed your hair. Oils can inhibit or entirely block dye uptake for some people, especially with grey.

Vanillatte
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Re: Update Question--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

Yikes! Glad I asked. :)

Okay, scrap these test batches.

Let me see if I have this right....

Mix the cassia and henna separately with lemon juice. Let rest overnight.

When the henna and cassia have dye released, mix up the buxus.

Prepare the test combinations in porportions as previously stated and apply to test strands.

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Carrie
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Re: Update Question--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

I would definitely ditch the olive oil whenever buxus or indigo are involved, and it's not a great idea when covering gray with any kind of plant dye - gray can be dye resistant in many cases and oils don't help with that.

ACWN
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Re: Update Question--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

You dont HAVE to use lemon juice if you dont want to, but yeah, that would probably be what you want to do for a LJ based mix. A little acid is always a good idea when covering grey.

If you have tea on hand, you could brew up some tea, make it very strong/dark (3 packets for every cup of water, you'll need roughly 3 cups for 200 grams of henna from my experience - judge from there for you mix), then when its cooled, toss in a capful of lemon juice if you have some. You should get dye release in 2 - 4 hours, maybe 5. If not, you'll get dye release in 1 - 4 hours.

 

The cassia will be ready when the henna is, but you wont be able to test the cassia like you would henna since cassia's dye is pale yellow and doesnt show on the skin like henna.

 

Yep for the buxus.

Vanillatte
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Re: Update Question--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

Excellent!

I think I've got it!

Thank you so much! I would have mucked it up for sure without the helpful advice you two have provided. I think tomorrow is looking good for this little experiment.

I'm both nervous and excited.

We will see! I will post pics, unless it is a disaster, in which case I will probably go into hiding. :))

 

-Lorna

 

Vanillatte
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Re: Test Strand Results!!--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

I performed my test strands today.

Here are the results:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lornatho/May32011?authkey=Gv1sRgCOqZ6aPV3__PRA&feat=directlink

I mixed up the following:

Cassia mixed with strong black tea and a tablespoon of lemon juice.

Henna mixed with strong black tea and a tablespoon of lemon juice.

I covered these two bowls with plastic wrap pressed to the surface of the mixture.

I began dye release testing the henna at one hour, then again at two, and at three hours it stained my palm.

I mixed up the buxus with warm water.

Then I mixed up two bowls: one with 6 parts cassia, one part henna and another with six parts cassia, one part henna, one part buxus.

I applied to four strands:

Cassia only

Henna only

Cassia/henna

Cassia/henna/buxus

and placed the strands in separate zip lock bags. Waited three hours, washed the strands with shampoo and set them out to dry.

I really like the cassia/henna but am worried it is a bit too red for my complexion. The C/H/B mixture is a bit too dark. So I am thinking I will go with a mixture of eight parts cassia/one part henna/one part buxus. I may end up using only 1/2 part buxus instead, but will decide in the morning.

I believe there is a question on the forum right now about using buxus to tone down red. I will have to research this. I do not want to lose all the red by applying buxus only later.

-L

mamaherrera
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Re: Test Strand Results!!--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

Another question.  How do you get those strand tests to work?  I can't ever get them saturated with enough dye to see if teh dye is working, any tips?

Vanillatte
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Process complete! 80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

I am finished. It was nearly an all-day process but I just got out of the shower. My initial reaction is 'Yay! It isn't grey!' But there appear to be areas that are quite orange/reddish that I am not sure how I will like once it all dries. I will update my photo link later or first thing tomorrow. I don't blow dry my hair and it will probably not dry before I go to bed.

I ended up doing the eight parts cassia/one part henna/and slightly less than one part buxus.

I mixed with strong tea and a couple ounces of lemon juice.

It dye released at two hours and then I didn't get it on my hair until three hours.

It stayed in my hair for three hours.

I filled my tub with water and swished around in the tub until it felt everything was out. I sat up and realized I was sitting in a tub full of pond scum. Yay!

I put a large amount of deep conditioner in and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. Washed my hair twice. Applied another deep conditioner. Rinsed. Process complete.

If it dries somewhat before bed, I will try to post a picture.

Thank you for all your help. I imagine I will continue to do henna since I want my hair to be long and the chemical salon colors put on my hair for years only dried it out.

 

ACWN
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Re: Process complete! 80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

Remember to give it at LEAST a week before you finally judge it. It might not be as orange by the time it oxidizes. If it is, you can do a weak buxus gloss (strand test) to tone it down a little.

Vanillatte
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Re: Process complete! 80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

Thank you! I will keep that in mind. I posted a new picture to my link listed in my very first post. It looks more blonde in this picture, but there is quite a bit of red in it that shows up more in natural light. I will post more pictures tomorrow.

Thanks again!

triss25
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Re: Test Strand Results!!--80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

 It looks great! Thanks for doing all the test strands. Most of my hair is very white. It will help me decide on a mix for mine. I wish my grey was as uniform as yours. The back of my head has nowheres near the grey as the rest. I am thinking of going lighter. The cassia definitely shows up on white hair. I guess I am just gonna start adding cassia to my mix until it's a color I like.  

 

Thanks again.

Chrissy

Vanillatte
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New Photos Added: 80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

I added a few new photos.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lornatho/May32011?authkey=Gv1sRgCOqZ6aPV3__PRA&feat=directlink

 

Hi Chrissy!

My hair isn't very uniform. It is nearly completely grey at the top. If you look at the before photos, I have one where I lifted the back of my hair up. It is a dark brown under there. That is probably 20% of my hair color, but because it is at the nape of my neck, it is usually not visible unless I pull it up into a pony tail.

It is amazing to me how different my hair looks in different light. I will post more pictures in a few days, as one of the moderators said the color would oxidize and likely take on a different character. Will be interesting!

-Lorna

Crabbyco
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Re: New Photos Added: 80% grey- how to use henna and/or ...

Thank you for the pictures. It is so hard to find cassia/henna pictures and I don't have the money to do a lot of testing. I love my henna hair, not so crazy about my blond/gray roots. You have inspired me to play with cassia more.

Vanillatte
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Update 80% grey - First Root Touchup - Detailed Instructions.

I did my first application on 05/10/2011.

Had about one inch growth as of 07/05/2011.

Here is a link to my 'henna album':

picasaweb.google.com/lornatho/May32011

My original mix and the mix to do root touchup:

8 parts Cassia

1 part henna (Yemen Light)

1/2 part Buxus

I purchased the Henna for Hair 'Cinnamon' Kit and the Ancient Sunrise Cassia (500 grams of Cassia). This was enough to do my first, full-head, application, my root touchup and I have enough left to probably do one more root touchup. My hair is about two inches below shoulder length.

I didn't measure in grams or ounces, but used a small scoop (about 1/8 cup) and simply used 8 scoops of cassia, one scoop of henna and 1/2 scoop of buxus.

Prior to root application (and original application), I applied Rainwash.

Rainwash Mixture:

Two teaspoons of Rainwash

Four ounces of distilled water.

Apply roots to ends and left on for forty minutes.

Washed hair with Burt's Bees Super Shiny Grapefruit and Sugar Beet Shampoo.

Let hair air dry.

Mixed up the cassia and henna in two separate bowls with strong tea and two capfuls of lemon juice (four large teabags brewed in two cups water) COOLED to room temperature. The mixture resembled thick yogurt. Covered with plastic wrap pressed to surface of the mixture.

Had dye release from the henna in two hours.

Added warm water to the buxus and mixed.

Mixed the cassia, henna, buxus together thoroughly.

To apply:

Started at my natural part. Applied the mixture to the one inch of growth using a flat one inch paintbrush. Used a comb to create the next part, flipped it over to opposite side, applied to roots and so on until I reached my ear area.

Flipped all hair back to starting position and did the opposite side.

When both tops and sides were complete, I enlisted the help of my daughter and she did the back.

When roots were coated, I mixed up two ounces of the dye mixture with four ounces of heavy conditioner and enough water to make a 'gloss'. It was fairly runny, like a smoothie. I applied this mixture to my ends by hanging my head over a sink and just slathering/smooshing it in.

Finally, wrapped my head in plastic cling wrap, placed a knit cap on my head, tucked generous amounts of rolled toilet paper all along the edge to keep drips in check, and went to bed.

I set my alarm for two hours later. However, when the alarm went off at two a.m. sleep seemed much more important than what color my hair might be if I left it in overnight. 

By the time I got up and got enough coffee to finish, the mixture had been in my hair for nine hours.

I applied a lot of conditioner, let it soak in, rinsed, washed my hair twice, applied more conditioner. 

I went outside to let my hair dry naturally. 

I'm very happy with the results and I really like the brighening effect the gloss provided to the ends. 

My hair is almost all grey on the top, but the underside near the nape of my neck is dark brown with some red. I don't mind the varying colors as it isn't that noticeable unless I pull my hair up, which I rarely do.

Note: My scalp is red from the lemon juice and from being out in the sun yesterday. I have very sensitive skin, but it calms down in a few days. It IS NOT from the henna dye.

If anyone has any suggestions or questions, please feel free to ask!

-Lorna

mamaherrera
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Re: Update 80% grey - First Root Touchup - Detailed ...

awesome thread, EH??  Very help ful to newbies like me.  When you say you put the gloss onto your ends, do you mean just the ends, or you worked it all the way up?? also, how often do you find the need to do all the hair/versus just roots, if this cassia supposedly fades within three weeks?? I imagine you have to do more all over the head applications, no?

Vanillatte
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Re: Update 80% grey - First Root Touchup - Detailed ...

Hello!

I put the gloss on the ends up to, but not in, the root area. Meaning... I didn't put gloss on the root area which was covered with the full-strength dye.

This is the first time I have done a root application with henna. I did the gloss on a whim thinking it would brighten the color a little. However, I was quite happy with the color prior to the application, so I imagine it would have turned out just as nice without the gloss.

Adding the gloss didn't seem to dramatically alter my hair, though it did make it a little redder perhaps. I think the next time I do a root touchup I will do a gloss of just cassia to the ends instead of the cassia/henna/buxus gloss.

Hope that helps.

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