Henna staining on wood or other surfaces

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redfox
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Henna staining on wood or other surfaces

It's been a while since I"ve been on here :) 

I have a question about doing henna on wood, specifically, an unfinished guitar.  I want to get an unfinished kit for a guitar for my hubby, or even just to sell, but I'm not sure how to get the design I want onto the guitar.

My main question is, can I use a pencil to give me a guideline to follow, and will the pencil come off or not show once I've stained the wood?

Also, how long would I need to leave the henna on, what is a good mix for using on wood (I know I wouldn't want to use essential oils), is there an easy way to get shading?

Anything else that would be helpful? 

 

Thanks :)

Nicole
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Joined: 2010-07-02 02:30
Re: Henna staining on wood or other surfaces

The pencil will show through, because henna stains translucent (is that the right word?) and pencils is darker than the henna.  It's hard to get it out after, if you try to erase it, it just tends to make a dark smudge.

The longer you leave the henna on, the darker it gets, though I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make after it's dry.  I've done some where I do two applications, though this can get messy looking if your lines don't match up exactly.  What I heard from others and did myself is put the object in the bathroom when I take showers to re-moisten and give it heat, though you probably wouldn't want to do that with a guitar or any functional piece of wood.  I found when the paste dried, it tended to shrink, so I really don't know how long leaving it on actually makes a difference.  I did some last-minute gifts for Christmas that only stayed on for a few hours overnight, and they've darkened quite nicely.  The oxodization takes longer than on skin however, so you wouldn't want to finish right away if that was your plan.

I just used the same recipe as I use for body art.  You want to terp it so you get a good colour.  Maybe add a bit more sugar so it stays moist longer, but then this can make it really hard to scrape off.

At Walmart, I found some unfinished wood rectangles for cheap, you might want to try to find something like that to experiment on before you try it on some huge project.  Wood is a bit less forgiving than skin, so if you make a mistake and try to rub it out, you might end up with a blob, or a slightly orange spot.

As far as shading, I think the same way you would normally shade, or you could use the wet toothpick/paintbrush technique.

Hope this helped!

Nicole

Jen
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Joined: 2010-04-26 06:47
Re: Henna staining on wood or other surfaces

 I don't use mulitple applications. Too hard to line up! But the color will keep deepening for MONTHS after you remove the paste. Years even!

I also don't use the same recipe I use for body art. Sugar makes the paste too hard to get off and you end up buffing out spots of stain while removing the paste. I also go much lighter on the terp than usual. When I tried the same ratio of 2 ml per 10 g the oils bled out on the wood a bit and looked sloppy.

If you can get a hold of a bit of the same type of wood as the guitar to play with, that would help a lot!

I my experience, I was able to get away with a VERY light pencil line. It was visible when I first removed the paste, but it disappeared as the stain darkened. I would only use the pencil when you have to though -for planning geometric or radial shapes, etc.

I also found that pre treating the wood with amonia gets a deeper color quicker.

Here's a blog post about that: hennamuse.blogspot.com/search/label/Experiments

xyz
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Joined: 2010-05-16 17:58
Re: Henna staining on wood or other surfaces

Would creating a stencil work?  Not to fill out the empty spaces with henna, but just to visually guide the placing of the paste?

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