First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise on some questions!

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Flieder
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First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise on some questions!
Hi, I've been coloring my hair myself with store bought chemical hair dyes for 8 years and at hair salons for the last two years. About 2 yrs ago, a hair colorist burnt my scalp badly and since then, I have been having scalp dryness, itchiness, dandruff and you name it. And I never liked putting chemicals on my hair anyway. The reason I color my hair to have some warm tones in my hair color and two cover up my gray hair which is about 15%-20%. So I have a few questions: Last time I got my hair dyed was 2 months ago and I have about 1 inch virgin hair grew since then. My virgin hair is dark brown. The rest of the hair which is about under shoulder blade length is medium brown with nice warm tones in it. Its like rich milk chocolate color. I like this color. What color henna or henna/some other plant mix do i need to get to obtain this color? Also, will it be able to cover my gray hair? Also, since I have a bit of virgin hair also, will it create two different colors due to henna dying virgin hair vs chemically dyed hair? I really want to condition my scalp and rid of all the problems I've had and also not use chemicals on my head anymore. Any advise is greatly appreciated as I am totally clueless about hennaing. Thank you!
ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

A 50/50 mix of henna and indigo will give you a warm medium brown on your grays and deepen the color of your length but unfortunately, plant dyes cannot lighten (only add to) so your natural color will remain dark brown. It could actually go darker if you add a hennigo to it as it will add color to what you have. This means you could end up with potentially near black to black roots.

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
Is there any other option to not have my natural hair dark? I hate my dark hair as there is no warmth to it which makes me look so serious :(

ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

Henna alone can add a red shimmer to your hair in bright light like sunlight or a camera flash, but depending on how dark your hair actually is... there may not be a visible color in most lighting.

Unfortunately, unless you lighten your hair first... plant dyes really wont show or change anything but your gray. I'm sorry, I know how much that sucks (I hate my now natural color too). But as awesome as plant dyes are, their dye is translucent like a wood stain and only add to what you have rather than covering it up like chemical dyes do.

 

Best I can offer in way of a natural lightening method is honey lightening... but its a very exact science to create a natural peroxide via the honey and distilled water. If you don't get it right just, it doesn't work. Its also extremely tedious and gradual.

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
Thanks very much for the info. I was checking Mehandi web site and saw a few options like medium brown etc. The one called 'Medium Brunette Ancient Sunrise Henna' sounded good, but from what you say it wont work on my natural hair, right? As for the henna and indigo mix, what will be the difference if I use less indigo more henna or vise verse. I saw many people posted using different mixes of henna and other stuff to create nice colors. Is that the way to go? to experiment and see whats best?
ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

A medium brown mix will give your gray hair a medium brown color. It will deepen your chemically damaged hair to a darker brown and turn your natural color to black, or nearly black.

The less indigo you use, the more red the results will be. The more indigo you use, the darker brown the results will be but indigo doesn't bind well without henna so if you use a lot more indigo than henna, its best to do a two step hennigo and apply just henna by itself first for several hours, then the indigo heavy mix.

 

You can definitely experiment! Just keep in mind that its going to be everything but your natural color that will change.

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
Thank you again for your help. What would I need to mix to obtain caramel color or medium golden on the grays which hopefully make my overall hair color lighter.?
ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
It will make your gray into highlights and add golden tones to your chemically damaged hair, but that's it. Well, your natural color will be more glossy too but it won't be lighter.
ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
Wow, so the forum REALLY doesn't like my phone ..
Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

Hi ACWN -

I guess your last comment was cut-off  I didn't get what you were referring to use to have golden tones and have lighter grays?

ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

It wasn't cut off. It was my bad, I read your reply on the fly and didn't catch all of your post.

 

I don't know about a "caramel" color, but to get a more golden brown color... you'd want a cassia heavy mix. 50% cassia to 25% henna and 25% indigo. You can fiddle with the ratio, but I'd keep the henna and indigo in equal amounts.

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

Thanks again for your advise. I ordered henna, indigo and cassia from Mehandi web site.  Based on what I've been reading I will prepare the henna mix from the night before and indigo and cassia (separately) right before the application, right?  And, once everything is ready I will combine them.

Also, I read somewhere on the website, that I should not use vinegar, but have been reading people adding apple cider vinegar into their mixture. Also I read oils are not recommended due to preventing dye to be fully observed but then again I've seen many people adding tea tree oil, jojoba oil etc into their mix.  Can you clarify this confusion for me please? What is the best way of mixing my ingredients.

 

thank you so much.

ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

No, cassia and henna at the same time. Henna and cassia have the same requirements. Once the henna is ready, so is the cassia. Indigo is the one that dye releases quickly.

 

Vinegar can make the henna stink pretty badly, so if you're sensitive to smell you might not want to use ACV. Those oils are for body art mixes most likely. Remember that mixing for hair and mixing for body are two TOTALLY different things. Certain things are added to body art mixes to make the dye stain the skin darker, these are known as terps. They are only added in small amounts. Body art can sometimes require terps because the henna is old or weak, or because a particular place on the body doesn't take the dye well.

Hair doesn't require these things. Hair mixes should be kept simple. Certain oils, in the case of hair mixes, CAN inhibit dye uptake.

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
Ok, then I will use lemon juice diluted with distilled water. Is there an exact measurement of these?  Also, my hair is around my shoulder blades but its very thin.  How much of each of henna, cassia and indigo should I make?
ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

How much you dilute it is up to you, but remember that the more you dilute it... the sooner it will dye release.

 

How much of each did you purchase?

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...
Is it supposed to runny? or more like a thick paste? I bought 100gr each.
ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

In between. You want it to be the consistency of stirred yogurt. Just a little runny. You want it to drizzle off the spoon in a fairly smooth rope. Indigo wont mix that smooth, it has a different nature than henna and cassia. Its kinda gritty by nature and clumpy. If you try to mix it smooth like henna, it'll be too thin.

Or at least that's what I understand.

 

I would do the full 100g of cassia and half of each of the henna and indigo. I was going to recommend 150g cassia and 75g each of henna and indigo (better to have too much than not enough), buuuuut... yeah.

I always recommend more than what you think you'll need cause I know when *I* first started, even though I was told "yogurt consistency", I could never manage it the first half dozen or so times I mixed and I always mixed it WAY too thick. I had chin length hair at the time and 100g should've covered it entirely and evenly... but I couldn't get even 200g to cover my hair!

Flieder
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

Thank you so much for all the advise!! I just hennaed my hair on sunday and it turned out great! I love the color. Its very similar to what I would get from chemical dye. My gray hair is goldeny-coppery color while the rest is rich medium coppery brown which suits my complexion.  I had my husband put it on my hair so it was a bit process! and washing it off completely took 20 mins lol.  But, the end result is nice and my scalp is not itching!

As you said, the mixture was barely enough and next time I will increase it a bit more.  And I think I made it too thick.  Do you think if I don't use cassia next time, my gray hair will be different color than what it is right now? What did really cassia did to the color I have on the length?

Thanks again a tons!

ACWN
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Re: First time henna! Need help with hair color and advise ...

Since cassia has a weak, yellow dye it basically dilutes the results of the hennigo mix. It makes it lighter. If you don't use it, your color would be drastically darker.

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